Kusadasi to Kirazli, Thursday February 7th (Ephesus and Homestays)

Looking back 6 weeks later as I write this, Thursday was probably the most memorable day in our trip, with the stop at Ephesus and our homestays, even more so than the days in Istanbul. 

We started out at Ephesus, and I'm glad it wasn't the first ancient site we visited as it was expansive and well preserved and might have made the previous ones seem less impressive by comparison.  The historical significance hit me when our guides reminded us of that this is the Ephesus referred to in the Bible as in St. Paul's letter to the Ephesians.

Now 5km from the coast, in Greco-Roman times it was a seaside city of  250,000.  I won't attempt a pithy summary of the city's history, and will let the pictures do the talking.  Of course before we entered the north gate of the city, there were a series of souvenir stands, and I appreciated the honesty of this merchant. 



Just inside the north gate to the city looking toward the sea and the rest of the city down below



The library of Celcus



looking back up Curetes Way

library of Celcus



Panoramic shot of the library with the gate to the lower agora (outdoor courtyard) to the right.  Classmate Andrew Wright showed me how to take panoramic photos and then I couldn't stop. 



Lower agora on other side of gate next to library



Ephesus' theater -- that's actually me on the stage.  The battery ran out on my phone (taking too many panoramic pictures) so I got this one from Andrew



So once we all caught our breath from seeing Ephesus, after lunch we went to a small olive processing company called Sirince, outside the nearby town of Selcuk.  One of the things I enjoyed (I didn't even notice it at the time) is that they had the multi-blue, "evil eye" on many of the machines to ward off mechanical failure.  One is visible in the photo below on the far left edge of the photo at the lower left edge of the "E" on the machine. 

We were brought to the plant by the man who had arranged our home stays, and following that tour we circled back to the small village of Kirazli not too far from where we stayed the previous evening in Kusadasi.

We certainly turned a few heads when the motorcoach pulled into town and 30 Americans spilled out.  Our host, Yalcin, took us to his small olive nursery which was right in the village and talked to us about how he was trying to grow new trees by grafting new high producing varieties onto native rootstock.

After the tour of his tree nursery we took over (literally) the local tea house for a discussion of olive production and marketing.  Nothing like kicking half the male population out of the tea house to make a good impression.  But the truth was the entire class was in a bit of a funk as we were looking ahead to the homestays as most of us were nervous and none of us knew what to expect. 

Evan Scheidel outside the Kirizli tea house

Our host had arranged for about a dozen families to host our class in groups of twos and threes, and so about five in the afternoon, people started showing up and leading multiple groups off to their homestays.  We were staying only stones throw from the tea house in the middle of town, and so along with Scott Keyes and Brian Hall, we soon met Faruk and his family.  

I'd managed to learn a little bit of Turkish so Brian and Scott figured they were all set staying with me.  My Turkish came in very handy but not for the reasons I expected.  For one thing Faruk and his 21 year old daughter who was home from university in Ankara both knew English pretty well.  Faruk is a talented artisan, retired from selling carvings and drawings to tourists in Kusadasi, and was now growing some olives, oranges and cherries.  His daughter had already spent a semester in China.  Faruk's wife didn't speak English nor did his grown son, who appeared to have a disability. 

They couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming to us and we all knew right away, it was going to be fine.  We had a great time talking about where we were from and what we did, and soon after our arrival, we had brought out the computer and were showing on google earth our homes, and even zoomed in on Faruk's house and beach house near Kusadasi (see below).  Brian and I had brought picture books as gifts for our host (Scott had brought maple syrup) and we spent a good deal of time going through the pictures.  We really started having a good time when we were comfortable enough to start busting chops -- not surprisingly, I was the initial target.  Brian is an accomplished hunter, which Faruk was very interested in, and he even brought out his gun to show him.  Faruk's son was very wary of us at first, but he finally came in and joined us and was pouring over the picture books, especially the one Brian brought featuring Adirondack wildlife.

They fed us a wonderful dinner with mountains of food and once we had retired to the living room to visit after dinner, they gave us Turkish coffee, fruit (where I discovered the walnut fig combo) followed by tea.  Faruk's wife and daughter would not let their father's cup stay empty for long.  When I said my Turkish came in handy, it was more the novelty/icebreaker aspect of it -- they got a kick out of my handful of Turkish phrases with what seemed to be a mixture of appreciation and amusement.  They invited two relatives over (according to class members this happened at a number of places where neighbors and relatives were invited to view the Americans) including a 10 year old niece who wanted to try out her English on us.  She was too shy to say a word, so I suggested I would try Turkish on her and when I asked if she knew English (in Turkish), everyone doubled over with laughter. 

We found out the next day that many host families didn't speak any English, but overall, most of the visits went fine even if many did include a lot of smiling and pointing at pictures.  Google translate and dictionaries came in handy as well though I would advise being cautious using google translate, as some appear to be rough translations.   



at dinner with Brian, Faruk and Scott

It had been a wonderful stay, and as we said goodbye that next morning driving away on the bus, we knew none of us would ever forget our 18 hours in Kirizli. 

Pamukkale to Kusadasi -- Wednesday February 6th

Waking up in Pamukkale, we began the day right outside the back door of our hotel, where we could see the Travertines, which look like white cliffs (and no guarantees on my Wikipedia-referenced geologic explanation).  Travertine is a form of limestone formed by a process of rapid precipitation of calcium carbonate, often at the mouth of a hot spring or in a limestone cave.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travertine  As we found out that was certainly the case here, with the hot springs coming through the middle of the ancient city of Heiropolis, which sits atop the white cliffs.  Interesting to note that until about 10 years ago there were hotels situated right in the middle of the hot springs which were ruining the Tavertines, turning them brown (shocking that hotels sitting within the hot springs, actually using the heated water in the hotel, would have an adverse effect) and following a contentious lawsuit, were taken down. 

Heirpolis itself is a sprawling historical site, as we would find out later, not the best preserved.  Like many sites it had layers of history with the picture below showing city gates to the main street from both Roman, and post-Roman times. 

In front of the the gymnasium which also houses the museum which we didn't have time for. 

All of which overlooked the Tavertines and the Mountains to the South and West. 

with Jenny Crist and Scott Keyes

After Heiropolis, we headed back to Denizli, where fortunately the air was better.  We saw a nut roasting and packaging company called Altintop (though most of the hazelnuts are grown further north and east near the Black Sea).  

Following Altintop, we headed due west toward the Aegean coast to Aydin, where we visited Yateks figs, which packaged figs (not surprisingly) but also copacked some other fruit from a Spanish company as the labor cost was much cheaper in Turkey. 



Black light aids workers (all women) who look for a particular kind of toxin (like alphatoxin in corn). 



The figs are handpacked and as we would find out a day or two later, delicious with walnuts.  Following the tour we got a very interesting discussion about fig production, which is from an evolutionary standpoint, is an ancient fruit, but which retains some advantages over many of the fruits we cultivate here in the U.S. 

After Yatek's Figs we travelled to a nearby winery called Sevilen Magnesia Winery.  A large, modern facility, it was interesting visiting a winery in a Muslim country.  The winery appeared to have a marriage of convenience with the government, which taxes their product heavily.  

winery foyer



lots of stainless steel tanks

After Aydin, we headed the rest of the way to Aegean seaside city of Kusadasi where we enjoyed wine compliments of our hosts at Sevilen.  It was a common theme during the trip in that at each stop today we received gifts, hazelnuts from Altintop, figs and raisins from Yateks, which had also had held back some production so that we could see their plant (somewhat offseason) while operating. 



Antalya to Pamukkale -- Tuesday February 5th

So today was our longest travel day as we left the seaside city of Antalya and our tour bus headed Northwest toward Pamukkale, a total of 250km.  Immediately leaving the city, the road began to rise in elevation as we traveled into the mountains we could see west of Antalya from our hotel.

Before leaving the city, whose symbol is the orange (note orange symbol in traffic circle), I saw this picture which reminded me while Turkey is a very modern country its rustic roots are not too far beneath the surface.

As we rose in elevation the terrain reminded me of Colorado. In places the landscape was a mixture of rocky outcrops strewn with scrubby evergreens interspersed with high mountain plains and even some cropland.

Our first two stops for the day were in Acipayam, about two thirds of the way between Antalya and Pamukkale.  The first stop was a large Western-style dairy milking about 3,330 cows.  It looked like what you would see in western New York or more accurately the western United States, including an American dairy consultant who happened to be there the day we visited.  They took biosecurity very seriously as you can see from the Tyvek suits they had our entire group don, (including the bus driver who didn't leave the bus).

The second stop was a dairy processing plant and feed mill called Aynes.  The interesting connection here is that the son of the owner and heir apparent to the business had studied at SUNY Binghamton. It was a very modern plant dairy plant and they were building a large addition right next door. The feed mill was not quite as modern but very reminiscent of the types of facilities we have here in United States.

Some Aynes products including their banana flavored breakfast drink and some fruit juices, including cherry, my favorite

Bulk milk trucks have four separate tanks for farm collection

Dairy plant expansion, across parking lot from existing plant

An overload of strong tea (I'd become overly fond) wasn't agreeing with my stomach that afternoon (and thus the fondness quickly subsided) and as we came down out of the highest part of our journey into the city of Denizli I wasn't feeling great. Denizli did not put its best foot forward as we traveled through on a cold afternoon and with all the homes using coal or wiid there was a dense gagging smoke that covered the city.

We went about 10 km beyond Denizli for overnight lodging in the Pamukkale at a small boutique hotel. It was the one place where we couldn't get Wi-Fi very easily.  The food was okay but it had a mineral bath in the basement which we all tried out.

Atrium of the Pamukksu Hotel

Antalya area agriculture

These posts are coming a bit out of order as I toggle between devices with battery power on the road and uploading back at the hotel when I have Wifi. Still figuring out how to do this while on the road.  [And now finishing them up back in the U.S.]

So this post covers our tours on Monday, February 4th, before Aspendos. Our first stop was Antalya's terminal market where we met with the market's boss (an actual term used in some cases) who then gave us a quick tour of the facility including a company that was packing tomatoes. He seemed to enjoy marching through the facility with our group trailing behind like goslings.

The market is government owned with 600 tenant companies who buy local/regional produce from farmers in the region as well as import some and then distribute throughout the country and the region.

The facility was very reminiscent of Hunts point terminal market in New York City. In addition to the broker/distributors' units, there was an open air market were unconsigned product is bought and sold.

Much of Turkey's produce comes from greenhouse production which is prevalent in the Antalya region. There are huge swaths of land covered by greenhouses but unfortunately I haven't been able to get a good picture depicting that.

Fittingly after the tour of the terminal market, we visited a nearby greenhouse and nursery operation, Kurgu Peysaj,  though it grew indoor plants and ornamentals. The hosts were very affable and as was the case at many stops we were served tea, though unlike the usual black tea (which I'm becoming fond of) this was an herbal tea.

Nothing way out of the ordinary here except the proprietor seemed very intent on finding new varieties of plants making sure he had in stock what his customers were looking for.

After lunch our next stop was an orchard operation about 45 km East of Antalya.   This was a substitute stop in that we were supposed to see some of the orchards owned by Alara Orchards, whose CEO Yavuz Taner (who had flown down from Bursa to meet with our group) had spoken with us the previous evening, however his orchards were wet with the recent rains, so he had arranged a visit to some growers from whom Alara purchases fruit.

Interestingly these two American educated brothers did not have a farm background as their family was in real estate development.  Their 150 acres were relatively new (in the background of the pictures of their tree fruit, plums - already flowering -- peaches, and cherries, greenhouses are evident.).  They were quite pleased to see us and even had a foamboard sign made up saying welcome Cornell University complete with the Cornell logo, which they had us sign upon our departure.  I'm not sure how they pulled that off given the short notice of our visit.

Dinner that night was in a funky restaurant that was in a converted carpark in the old part of the city called Parlek Restaurant.  Their roast chicken was great and I got to try some rock Raki which is the national drink of sorts of Turkey.  Flavored with aniseed, it tastes like licorice/sambuca, but I didn't care for it much.

Ephesus

Picture for now, narrative to follow. Started in Kusadasi, and before visiting an olive oil factory and an olive tree nursery, visited the ancient city of Ephesus pictures below.

At the end of the day was our home stay, where our class was paired in groups to stay with Turkish families in a nearby village. A wonderful experience (a bit nervous going in), and likely more to follow on that as well.

In Izmir tonight and flying to Istanbul tomorrow for final segment of the trip.